Water Testing Program for Landowners near Gas Wells and Drinking Water

Posted: Monday, June 16 2008

Penn State Cooperative Extension and the Lycoming College Clean Water Institute is offering a water testing program for landowners who may be located near existing or future gas well-drilling activity. The program will include an information session by Bryan Swistock, Water Resources Extension Specialist, Penn State University. The topics covered include how gas wells can impact groundwater wells, regulations to protect private wells, potential water pollutants and some water testing strategies to ensure the safety of your water.

The program will be held on Wednesday, July 2, 2008 from 7:00 – 9:00 p.m. at the Lycoming College Academic Center, Room D001, on the Lycoming College Campus in Williamsport, Pa

Water testing through Penn State’s Analytical Services lab will be available in conjunction with this program. There will be water test kits available at the program for clients to take home with them, collect a water sample and then return the sample to a designated location so they can be returned to the lab at Penn State. Several water test packages specifically for gas well activity sites will be available at a 20 – 30% discount. The basic package includes tests for pH, total dissolved solids, barium and chloride and is available for $40. During the program, Mr. Swistock will also explain how to interpret your test results.

To register for the program, contact the Penn State Cooperative Extension office in Lycoming County at 570-433-3040 or via e-mail at Lycomingext@psu.edu

Penn State encourages persons with disabilities to participate in its programs and
activities. If you anticipate needing special accommodations or have questions about
the physical access provided, please contact Edward Berry at (570) 433-3040 in advance of your participation or visit.

“This program is for educational purposes only and is not intended to be legal advice. Consult an attorney”





For more information contact:
Mr. Edward Berry
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lycoming County
452 County Farm Road, Suite 206,
Montoursville, Pa. 17754
(570) 433-3040 office
(570) 220-9148 cell

Forestry "Podcasts" Now Available!

Posted: Thursday, May 29 2008

Have you heard there is forestry in the air? Forest landowners, natural resources professionals, and anyone interested in learning about our forests can now download podcasts from Bob Hansen, D.F., Forest Resources and Maple Products Extension Educator in Penn State’s Northeast region.

"What is a podcast?" Simply put, a podcast is similar to a radio broadcast. It comes from the combination of the word iPod and broadcasting. However, a podcast can be played on any computer or device that supports the MP3 format, including iPods. People can subscribe to receive topic specific podcasts via Really Simple Syndication (RSS) channel. This is similar to a magazine subscription except that it is a broadcast instead of print.

Dr. Hansen’s first podcasts are available at the iTunes store. To access them you need to have the free iTunes download on your computer and then visit iTunesU at The Pennsylvania State University. On the iTunesU site scroll down to The College of Agricultural Sciences, click there and find NE Pennsylvania Forests. Podcasts currently available are "Selling Timber" and "Emerald Ash Borer." While on the site, subscribe to NE Pennsylvania Forests and listen to future podcasts as they are uploaded. Future podcasts will cover topics on the care and management of woodlands, especially relating to Pennsylvania.

While you are on your computer, visit the Bradford County Extension website at http://bradford.extension.psu.edu. On that site, navigate to the natural resources link and then the forestry resources link. There scroll down to the podcast site and click on the Northeast PA Forests link. Visit the site often to try it out.

After listening to the podcast Bob welcomes your feedback and ideas for future topics. If you have suggestions, email Bob at rsh7@psu.edu. New 'casts will be posted on a regular basis. Listening to these podcasts is a new and simple way to get a daily dose of forestry. Try it out.

Contact: Bob Hansen

Email: rsh7@psu.edu

Fire in the Forest!

Posted: Thursday, May 1 2008

As you read this article, Pennsylvania’s spring fire season is coming to an end. You may have heard a forester say, "Pennsylvania has an asbestos forest." This means that wildfire is not normally common, except for two times a year -- in the spring and fall.

Why do we consider this an asbestos forest? In the winter and summer, wildfire -- a fire that was accidentally or purposely started and runs wild without constraint -- is uncommon. During these seasons, fuels on the forest floor are too damp to burn easily and in most of our forests the fuel is not continuous and any fire that does start will often burn out.

However, in the early spring after the snows are gone and before spring rains bring out canopy leaves, wildfire can happen. Days become increasingly warmer as the sun rises higher into the spring sky and its angle with the earth increases, becoming closer to its summer zenith. You can feel this warming as you walk through the spring woods. As the sun warms the leaf and small twig litter on the forest floor, it quickly dries. You may have noticed that the leaves become crunchy, sometimes even seeming to "fluff" up. This light and dry fuel is easy to ignite and it will easily carry fire across the forest floor. Also, some understory plants, such as mountain laurel and white pine will easily burn under these conditions.

As we progress into summer, Pennsylvania's forest fuels under the shady, leafy canopy become moister with an increase in humidity and lower temperatures near the forest floor than in the sun. During our summer months, understory plants are actively growing and their foliage is green and moist -- it is harder to ignite forest fuels under these conditions. Clearly, the conditions in our hardwood forests are much different from those encountered in the Western conifer forests or the chaparral forests in California.

In the fall, as the leaves drop and we move into October, our driest month, the sun again penetrates the canopy and warms the forest floor, drying the newly fallen leaves. Opposite to the spring, the sun each day reaches its daily zenith lower in the sky, and each day it becomes a bit cooler. Depending on when the leaves fall and how much rain we receive, fall can bring wildfire to our forest.

In the winter, cooler air temperatures and the availability of moisture from rain and snow, keep the understory much wetter. You may have noticed that the leaves that fell in the fall in the winter appear matted on the forest floor. It is really hard to have wildfire under these conditions.

While nearly everyone dislikes wildfire and the damage it causes, fire is important to our forests and can be an effective management tool. In the next few years, forest landowners, government, conservancies and others are hoping to reintroduce fire to our forests. These "prescribed" fires will differ from wildfires as resource professionals will plan their intensity and location to stimulate forest regeneration, control invasive plants, and encourage some plant species that depend on fire to create conditions suitable for their growth and renewal.

Fire in Pennsylvania is both a tool and a threat. Using tools correctly and safely takes learning and planning. Enjoy your time afield in Pennsylvania's forests and be careful to protect them from "wildfire."

The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management. For a list of free publications, call 800 234 9473 (toll free), send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or write to Forest Stewardship Program, Forest Resources Extension, The Pennsylvania State University, 320 Forest Resources Building, University Park, PA 16802. The Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry and USDA Forest Service, in Partnership with Penn State’s Forest Resource Extension, sponsor the Forest Stewardship Program in Pennsylvania.

Written by:

Jim Finley
Professor of Forest Resources
Penn State University

2008 Conservation District Poster Contest Winners Announced

Posted: Thursday, March 27 2008

The 2008 Annual Sullivan County Conservation District Poster Contest marked its 15th year of providing elementary students with an opportunity to demonstrate their knowledge of environmental awareness through artwork.
This year’s contest was special in that the Dushore Borough joined the conservation district in sponsoring the event. Dushore Borough and conservation district staff have been promoting water conservation and protection through the borough’s source water protection program.
This year’s poster contest featured the theme “Water is Life” and encouraged students to demonstrate how water is so important in our everyday life. The conservation district and borough conducted classroom programs on water usage, conservation, water sources, and protection. The classroom programs set the stage for students to develop posters.
As part of this year’s event, award winners were presented with plaques and poster contest t-shirts provided by Dushore Borough. The borough also provided a gift card to the overall winning entry.
A total of 129 entries were received for judging. The following students were recognized for their achievements in the contest:
4th Grade: 1st Place- Molly Frey, 2nd Place- Torie Shultz, 3rd Place- Megan Yonkin. Honorable mentions were awarded to: Olivia Morgan, Nicholas Miller, Mackenzie Doyle, and Carli King.
5th Grade: 1st Place- Jordan Beinlich, 2nd Place- Bethany Lambert, 3rd Place- James Heinrich. Honorable Mentions went to; Justice Flottemesch, Jayden Flottemesch, Tim McAdams Jr, and Emily McMahon.
6th Grade: 1st Place- Sara Feigles, 2nd Place- Ean Ammerman, 3rd Place- Rachael Choplick. Mystic Wood, Alyssa Blasi, and Jacob Gavitt were awarded honorable mentions.
The poster submitted by Jordan Beinlich was selected as the overall winning poster and will move on to the PA Association of Conservation District’s Contest this summer.
The conservation district and Dushore Borough are proud of all the students that participated and would like to thank the teachers for their involvement and dedication to making the annual poster contest such a big success for the students and the district. A special thank you is also extended to the Dushore Borough Council in its partnership with this project.
Photos of the winning entries can be found in the PHOTO GALLERY of this website.

Mulching: How to do it Right

Posted: Monday, April 2 2007

Mulching trees, shrubs, and other plants in your landscape is very beneficial. It provides an excellent interface for roots to grow. Mulch holds moisture, especially during dry conditions, decreases competition of weeds for valuable nutrients, maintains even soil temperatures, provides cover for beneficial insects, and keeps your lawnmower and weedwacker away from the trunk thus preventing what many arborists call weedwacker and lawnmower disease. Mulching is probably the best thing you can do for your landscape because it provides benefits for plants without any adverse effects as long as it is done correctly. Before you mulch here are few rules that will help your plants stay healthy:

1. Never pile mulch around plants. Mulch should be 2-3 inches in thickness. Over mulching can starve roots of oxygen. Also deep mulches encourage vole feeding during the winter months.
2. Mulch around trees and shrubs to the drip line or as far out from the trunk or stem as possible. The more mulch, the more area beneficial to roots, the healthier the landscape.
3. Mulch should never touch the bark of trees. Keep mulch away from the base of the tree at least 6-8 inches. A general rule on larger trees is to keep the root flare visible. This is area at the base of the tree where you can see the trunk widen toward the roots. If this is covered in mulch it may cause disease or rot due to the continuously wet conditions. This is probably the most common mistake in the landscape.
4. Bark mulch vs. wood chips: I usually recommend bark mulch over wood chips because fresh wood chips can bring disease and may attract insects but it depends on cost and where the mulches come from. On the other hand wood chips break down slower than conventional bark mulches and often you can get them free from a utility company or tree trimmer. Either work well but be sure to ask questions no matter where you get your mulch.
5. If mulching over established grass or weeds, lay down brown corrugated cardboard (be sure it is free of adhesives and/or dyes) then apply mulch. The card board will prevent the grass and weeds from penetrating the mulch and the cardboard will eventually breakdown.
6. To maintain mulch, each year turn the mulch over with a hoe or rake, replace thickness to 2-3 inches, and if weeds persist, I use cardboard or newspaper as stated above.

If you have any other questions about mulching plants in your landscape call Jay Bagley at 928-7057.

Pruning Old Apple Trees

Posted: Monday, April 2 2007

It is the second week of spring and that means its time to prune those old overgrown apple trees. Apple trees which have never been pruned (or worse have been pruned once or twice with a chainsaw) usually have a very dense canopy and produce small fruit on the outside of the canopy. To remedy this and strike a balance between the energy used for fruiting and the trees energy used for growth, it is necessary to thin the canopy to allow sunlight and air movement in the center of the tree. The sunlight and air penetration increases the health of the tree, increases fruit size, and the sunlight promotes fruit bud growth throughout the tree, even in the center. The tree is then maintained by removing vegetative growth (non-fruiting) each year which grows in response to the removal of living wood and the penetrating sunlight. This process can take many years. Think of a tree as a garden for fruit buds, if left open to sunlight they will grow and mature providing fruit year after year throughout the tree. Although without consistent sunlight, fruit buds will not grow or mature and may even die back. This is why it is important to prune every year. Also, this is why it may take a few years to begin to see the results of apple tree renovation. Remember, older trees respond negatively to over pruning by producing significant vegetative growth. It is best to prune a little, year after year, than to prune allot in only one year. To avoid stressing apple trees, especially older trees, here are a few tips to help you get started.

Step One: You need to have the proper tools: sharp hand pruners, loppers, and a hand saw. If you need a ladder then you need to invite a friend. Chainsaws lead to over pruning and are not recommended.

Step Two: Prune out dead, diseased, broken, and rubbing branches. Be sure to cut outside the branch collar (flare where the branch is attached) when removing limbs. Flush cuts significantly injure the tree. It is better to cut a few inches from the trunk than to cut against it. Contrary to popular belief, pruning paints have not been found to help in disease prevention. Again, the older the tree, the less significant cuts you want to make which puts stress on the tree. If you are renovating an old apple tree for the first time (over 10 years old) stop here. Start over with step two next year.

Step Three: Thinning is the next step in the renovation of an old apple tree. In my experience, a ten year old tree can be thinned out by 25% in one year using reduction and thinning cuts. It is counterproductive to remove 25% of the living canopy of a 50 year old tree in the first year. The tree will be overcome with vegetative growth and may decline rapidly. Again, the goal is to gradually thin the tree branches to let sunlight penetrate into the center of the tree. Once this is accomplished, usually by removing 50% of the canopy in 2-5 years, the tree must be maintained. Hint: I was told that once you can throw a basketball through the tree with out it getting caught, thinning is complete.

Step Four: Maintenance of a renovated apple trees requires yearly removal of vegetative growth. Vegetative growth is the new growth that emerges from the roots, trunk, and branches. They usually grow straight up. These branches will not produce fruit.

For more information on pruning old apple trees visit the Sullivan County Conservation District located in the Agricultural Resources Center on Route 487 in Dushore or call Jay Bagley at 928-7057.

In the forest: Thinning and pruning for wildlife

Posted: Monday, February 5 2007

By JASON SMITH DCNR-Bureau of Forestry Service Forester Tiadaghton State Forest


It is that time of year again, where a lot of people head outside to prune that old apple tree or pear tree. Whether you are removing old storm damage from the previous year or cutting away newly formed sucker sprouts, you realize this work is vital for the upcoming year for that particular apple or pear tree. Doing this work with apple, pear, and other trees has been around for a very long time. However, often overlooked, is the same kind of work that could be done this time of year to a multitude of tree and shrub species.

Actually, an oak tree or a flowering dogwood, does not really differ that much from apple or pear, when it comes to pruning and overall maintenance of the species. The acorn that the oak produces, is basically the equivalent to the apple that the apple tree produces. The same can be said for almost every species of tree and shrub in Pennsylvania. The main emphasis is trying to get that particular tree or shrub to ultimately produce more food for a vast array of wildlife species.

There are numerous terms used to describe techniques for enhancing wildlife food supply. One simple term I like to use, is a thinning, which can mean several different things. However, keeping it simple, it is really no more than a technique used to decrease the amount of surrounding competition of a particular tree or shrub you are trying to aid. For example, you wander into an old apple orchard that has been left go for many years and numerous other trees have surrounded those old apple trees and overrun their canopies. Apples do not like competition very much and when that happens, their ability to flower and fruit is greatly diminished. A little work with the chain saw and a couple of hand pruners and you know you could bring these old apple trees back to life again.

Releasing trees and shrubs from surrounding competition can greatly increase the local food supply for many species of wildlife. Generally, crowns should be released on at least three sides. As individuals are released, food will become available by improving the growth of individual plants.

Trees and shrubs should be selected for thinning based on their abundance on the property, wildlife benefits they provide, wildlife present on the property, and landowner objectives and long term goals for the property. The best trees and shrubs to release are those that are of high value to wildlife. In some cases these will be species that are low in abundance or rare on the property. In other cases, where the goal is seed production, several individuals of the same species should be released simultaneously.

Careful planning should be undertaken so that one species or individual is not released at the expense of another species or individual that also provides benefits to wildlife or is rare. For example, people often ask me about cutting grape vines on their property, thus aiding the tree that they are hanging in. If the tree they are trying to assist is a white oak, hickory, black walnut, or other nut producing tree then I often times feel that is fine. However, if the grape entanglement has completely engulfed several sweet birch or red maple trees, then I would say do nothing and let the grapes alone, providing a great source of food for wildlife, while the trees they are smashing down do not contain the same degree of food supply for our wildlife species. You always need to keep the “trade-offs” in mind when doing forestry practices to benefit wildlife food supply.

Winter is a great time of year to work outside! Most people think that I may be crazy, until you consider that rattlesnakes are not watching me, deer ticks are not burrowing into me, black flies are not carrying my ear away, and the legendary humidity of a Pennsylvania summer is not beating down.

Dead Trees Alive With Wildlife

Posted: Thursday, December 21 2006

By JASON SMITH
DCNR-Bureau of Forestry
Service Forester
Tiadaghton State Forest



Many species of woodland wildlife benefit from the presence of “den trees.” Den trees, or snags, are those standing trees that are used by animals for nesting, roosting, cover, food supply and other critical functions of basic survival.

These trees are often over-mature with many defects and no financial value from a forestry standpoint. However, from a wildlife standpoint, their value is life itself.

Wildlife that inhabit these den trees, such as woodpeckers, nuthatches, bluebirds, squirrels, and raccoons, are called cavity nesters. The type of wildlife that utilize these den trees will also depend on the kind, size, and location of the den tree.

There are two basic kinds of den trees: hard or soft. Hard den trees have rotten centers with a solid exterior and a few limbs. These usually make the best den trees because the center can be easily excavated to form a home. Trees that usually form good cavities are large hardwoods that decay slowly; such as sugar maple, beech, white oak, hickory and sycamore. These trees are normally quite old and may look totally healthy, but with close inspection, in and around the base of the tree a cavity, will indicate its hollow nature.

Soft den trees have softer exterior wood, and usually have no limbs. These den trees usually make good foraging sites for insect-eating birds, as well as nesting sites for woodpeckers, chickadees and nuthatches. These trees often have short life spans and rot quickly. Aspen would be a perfect example of this type of tree.

Evergreen den trees do not usually last as long as hardwoods, and are usually not utilized for a den tree. However, eastern white pine makes an excellent nest and perch site for bald eagles and osprey when located next to water.

In general, regardless of the kind of den tree, the larger it is the more wildlife it can support. The best den trees, live or dead, are over 20-inches diameter at breast height (DBH) with a den opening of four inches or more. Keep an eye out for trees that appear to be potential den trees and you may get a chance to view an owl looking out at you or flying squirrels running around. Often times, these trees have large, sprawling branches, and often are fruit and nut producers. Missing or bare branches, fungal growth, wounds, and discolored bark are all signs of a dying tree. Also, look for woodpecker holes, which usually indicate a rotting core.

Fallen logs in the forest are snags that have toppled over or healthy trees that fell, usually by a great windstorm like we had last week around here. Once these trees fall to the ground, they do not lose their value to wildlife. Fallen logs in or near water provide cover for various species of fish. Male ruffed grouse use fallen logs in their attempts to attract females with their springtime courtship drumming.Hollow logs will be used by a number of species for dens, especially in winter. If the log is big enough, foxes and even black bears will use it for this purpose. As the log becomes more decayed it becomes home to salamanders, moles, shrews, and many kinds of insects. Eventually, these fallen logs will regenerate the forest as they return to the soil, providing rich nutrients for new plants to grow.

Many times, den trees may be difficult to locate during your hike through the forest, but once you start learning what to look for, your chance of viewing wildlife greatly increases. Of course, you never have your camera when you need it!

Winter Habitat: Seeing Your Woodlot through Snow-Covered Lenses

Posted: Monday, December 4 2006

The winter snows will soon be falling across Pennsylvania. When they do fall, the woods change. New fallen snow puts a different face on forests: the contrast of dark and white, the quiet and calmness, and evidence of who visits your woodlot and where they go.

Not all snows are equal. Wet heavy snow shows the tracks of the heavier and larger species – it is relatively easy to see tracks by your larger visitors – rabbits, deer, turkey, fox, and even bear. Crusty snow, which comes in wet and freezes hard, can obscure many tracks; even deer, in some cases, can move around secretly. A light fluffy snow, especially when the winds are calm, shows the tracks of lighter species, but sometimes obscures details. The right snow is light, but moist and holds details of even the lightest visitor’s tracks. In these snows, you can see the prints of squirrel, mice, and over wintering birds.

Where do you see the most tracks? Where do you see one species? Where do you see mixed species? By answering these questions and keying them to the forest cover and positions in the landscape, you can find clues for managing your woodlot. Or, you might use the information for planning future walks, anticipating what you might see and where.

Cover is an important wildlife component in the winter landscape. What species show up in different cover? Conifer cover is important for providing protection from wind and reducing snow loads by capturing flakes on the boughs to sublimate later. Conifers with limbs reaching closer to the ground provide more cover than towering pines with their limbs in the upper canopy. In the low conifers, tracks from the mice, squirrel, rabbits, game birds and over wintering birds are likely obvious. Are the tracks throughout the cover or only in patches? Do they congregate near food, spring seeps, in the middle or on the edge?

If the tracks leave the conifer cover, where do they go? This is an important story to learn from tracks. Where do the critters walk when they go? Sometimes there is nowhere to go; the patch of cover is alone, isolated in the landscape. In the future, as you manage the woodlot, can you create linkages? Perhaps, a landowner can plant some understory plants, reforest a field, or when cutting firewood, create brush piles that link pieces of cover.

Many people enjoy building brush piles. Many of the publications for forest owners suggest building brush piles as winter and escape cover for small animals. Visit some brush piles; can you determine what species are using them? Mouse tracks might be common around the edges and if there is appropriate cover nearby you might see the little pathways that connect the mouse’s world. You might even see the tracks of some local predators working the area. If one brush pile shows use and another does not, you might consider how they differ. The locations might be different, or the construction varies. Consider it and learn.

Spring seeps and snow often tell interesting stories. Spring seeps, those places where ground water makes it to the surface, are special for many wildlife species. Because this ground water is warmer, snow depth is less, and insects, seeds, and even small plants might be available to wildlife all winter. By looking at the tracks, you will learn who uses the seep and how. From what direction do they habitually approach the water? From what cover are they coming and where do they go. Oftentimes, it is useful to create cover near spring seeps. A top from a fallen tree, a constructed brush pile, or plantings of native shrubs may increase the value of a seep for wildlife. The story in the snow may help guide these management activities.

It helps to know your tracks. The best way to learn them is to observe what species makes them. Watch how them move as they make tracks, and then take the time, after they leave, to read the signs in the snow. One time a cousin of mine became very excited as he observed “grouse” tracks in the snow. This grouse, when we looked, did not walk – it hopped. For many years, we talked about the hopping grouse, which was really the loping movement of a squirrel. Many books are available to help identify tracks. Most show clear impressions as you would see them in mud. In snow, they will be fuzzier, but still distinct.

Take a walk this winter and look down at the snow. Think about who made them, where they were going, what they were looking for in the winter landscape. Follow the tracks and create a story about their lives in the winter landscape. You will enjoy the winter woods more and see it in different ways every time you visit.

If you would like information on wildlife habitat, visit Management Practices for Enhancing Wildlife Habitat at: http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh107.pdf or contact us for a hard copy.

The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management for private landowners. For a list of free publications, call 1-800-235-9473 (toll-free), send e-mail to RNRext@psu.edu, or write to: Forest Stewardship Program, Forest Resources Extension, The Pennsylvania State University, 320 Forest Resources Building, University Park, PA 16802. The Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry and USDA Forest Service, in partnership with the Penn State's Forest Resources Extension, sponsor the Forest Stewardship Program in Pennsylvania.

Written by: Jim Finley
Phone: 814-863-0401
E-mail: fj4@psu.edu

Tips for Winter Tree Identification

Posted: Monday, December 4 2006

By JASON SMITH, service forester, DCNR and Bureau of Forestry, Tiadaghton State Forest



To most otherwise “forest-minded” people, the approach of autumn with its showers of many-colored leaves spells the end of the season’s activities in the identification of deciduous trees and shrubs. Without leaves, the members of the forest community (unless they are conifer species) seem to lose much of their summer’s identity and may even descend to the level of “brush.” This is in reality not the case, as may be easily discovered by examining any leafless twig with a 10X pocket lens, or even with the naked eye. You can master winter tree and shrub identification almost as easily as summer identification if you learn the basic skills.

Buds are structures which are plainly visible on most twigs and are brought on by climactic conditions unfavorable to continued growth.

Basically, a bud is an embryonic branch and as such bears a number of miniature leaves or flowers which in many cases are clearly recognizable when the bud is carefully dissected. Certain woody plants seem to lack buds; in such instances, however, they are usually embedded in the twig and emerge when growth begins in the spring.

A marked difference in the size and form of individual buds is often observable on the same twig.

The larger ones frequently prove to be flower buds, since they contain the rudiments of flowers, while the smaller and usually more numerous buds enclose only embryonic leaves, or leaf buds.

Buds, like leaves, can be memorized over and over again, until you learn it and never forget it. Many tree species are very easy to learn, as the winter buds are huge, while others are quite small and almost non-existent. One of the easiest to tell in winter is the hickory tree. The buds of most hickories are larger than that of any other hardwood tree in Pennsylvania. On the other hand, the buds of sugar maple are small and pointed like a pencil point.

Another helpful tip for winter tree identification is location itself. Just where exactly are you in the forest? If you are up high in elevation around here, you greatly diminish the overall number of tree species that you are looking at.

Our ridgetops around here are dominated with the oak species, red maple, pignut hickory, serviceberry and a few others. So, you can almost throw out trees like sycamore, elm, black walnut and others that simply do not tend to grow there, but prefer the richer bottomlands.

Many times, trees leave clues either on the tree or on the ground next to that tree. There are almost always leftover walnut husks lying below a walnut tree or hickory cases long since been left behind by the gray squirrel.

The fruit of the flowering dogwood often persists through the winter months on the branches and the same for the hawthorns.

The bark of hardwood trees is highly overlooked and can be used to help you identify also.

For example, the beech tree has one of the smoothest barks in the forest, while the chestnut oak is very rough and deeply grooved. However, many species bark changes greatly with age. The bark of birch and cherry starts smooth in life and becomes ridged and platy through time.

The paper birch, found in a few isolated pockets around here, sticks out like a sore thumb at anytime during the year with its beautiful white bark.

Surely, leaves are probably still the easiest way to identify tree species, but using the other parts of the tree and clues left behind, wintertime tree identification doesn’t have to be impossible.

Old growth trees a rare find on rugged terrain

Posted: Monday, November 20 2006

By JASON SMITH Service Forester DCNR-Bureau of Forestry Tiadaghton State Forest

In a previous position I had with The Bureau of Forestry, I was fortunate to travel across Pennsylvania examining the different old-growth forest reserves that remain.

From the Sweet Root Natural Area in the Buchanan State Forest of southern Bedford County to the Forrest H. Dutlinger Natural Area in remote, northwestern Clinton County, I got to see the overwhelming majority of old-growth left behind from the lumber era.

Some of these state forest natural areas were relatively easy to find and were not too far to hike, while others tested your physical toughness to get the chance to see trees that are 300 to 500 years old.

There are various reasons these old-growth reserves were spared during the lumber era of the late 1800s. Often, the rugged terrain made harvesting the trees almost impossible. Other areas were the beneficiaries of land disputes between different lumber outfits.

When companies couldn’t agree to whom the trees belonged, but were unwilling to go to court, the trees were left untouched.

Our beloved state tree, the eastern hemlock, is the species that remains predominantly in old-growth tracts. There are not too many places where one can find old-growth eastern white pine. White pine was the species that fell first, during what many people consider the first wave of the lumber era.

Eastern hemlock was not harvested until years later, after the white pine was nearly eliminated from most mountains. Furthermore, eastern hemlock grows and thrives in very rugged places, making it very difficult to extract.

If we could go back and walk into a virgin forest in Pennsylvania, it would not only contain ancient white pine and hemlock, but American chestnut and several oak species as well.

White pine, hemlock, American chestnut, and oak all can attain a very old age, with hemlock having the potential to become the oldest due to its ability to grow seemingly forever in a shaded environment.

By 1920, most of the original white pine and hemlock had been removed from the forest. Around the same time, American chestnut was being ravaged by blight, and soon would also be gone.

However, what about old-growth oak?

Oaks were definitely a component the original forest in Pennsylvania. However, oaks greatly expanded their niche after the pine, hemlock, and chestnut were removed.

Chestnut oak is the oak species we see dominating the higher elevations in our region, where the soil sustains almost nothing else but mountain laurel and blueberry.

Chestnut oak has deep ridges in the bark and chestnut-like leaves. It can be found from Maine to Georgia on almost any ridgetop.

Generally, weather and soil conditions keep it from attaining enormous height and size. However, just like the hemlock, a few pockets of old-growth chestnut oak exist statewide and several specimens exist that are every bit as big around as their hemlock neighbors.

Chestnut oaks can attain great diameter, but usually only on good soil. Very rarely do we find large-diameter chestnut oaks growing on a rugged landscape.

However, a small tract of these ancient giants exists on the Bald Eagle Mountain chain, overlooking Big Pine Creek.

This rocky, rugged ridge with its Tuscarora quartzite deposits is exposed to prevailing northwest winds and storms. Soil is non-existent, or thin, rocky and poor. Water is scarce, and seasonally intermittent.

As a result, vegetation is sparse and stunted. Most trees are knobby, gnarled and diminished in size. This hardly seems the place to search for an ancient forest.

However, this harsh, difficult growing environment harbors some truly ancient trees, perhaps the oldest living things in the Ridge and Valley Province of Pennsylvania. Several oaks are up in the 44-inch diameter range, the same size as the largest old-growth hemlock growing on the same ridge.

The exact ages of the old-growth chestnut oak and hemlock found on this site have yet to be determined, but I remain confident that they are between 350 and 500 years old.

Most of the hemlocks have been hollowed out, probably from fires that must have swept up the Bald Eagle Mountain. Although they are still alive, their condition makes it difficult to do exact age counts with growth rings.

However, recently one of the monster-sized chestnut oaks finally fell to the forest floor. It turned out to be solid throughout, which should make an exact age count possible.

What happened to the chestnut?

Posted: Monday, November 6 2006

Article by:
JASON SMITH DCNR-Bureau of Forestry
Tiadaghton State Forest


The American chestnut (Castanea dentata) was once the most important hardwood tree in our Eastern forests. It thrived from Maine to Georgia, often making up 33 percent of the forest. In the Appalachian Mountains, the ridges were nearly pure chestnut. During the summer, the chestnut trees were covered with long, creamy flowers, which made the mountains look as though they were covered with snow.

Most of us in Pennsylvania, when trying to envision the original Eastern forest, start by conjuring enormous Eastern white pines and Eastern hemlock trees. Indeed, those two species did comprise a large portion of the forest early settlers discovered. However, we very rarely imagine the enormous American chestnut trees that were found with the pine and hemlock.

In the virgin forest, American chestnut trees typically were 4 to 5 feet in diameter, 80 to 130 feet in height and upward of 600 years old. Many specimens were 8 to 10 feet in diameter, and legendary accounts persist of trees bigger.

As a forester, I cannot fathom what the earliest settlers came across in Lycoming County. It had to be absolutely remarkable. Still today, I occasionally come across stumps of American chestnut that probably met their fate around World War II, which was near the end of the epidemic.

The hallmark of the American chestnut was, of course, the chestnut. The nuts were prized for their flavor, and though not as large as their European or Asian relatives, demand was extremely high. Railroad cars loaded full from the “inner” mountainous regions were transported east to New York City, Boston and other major cities for the holidays.

Street vendors sold them freshly roasted, and they were a traditional ingredient for stuffing that holiday goose or turkey. Unlike their very close relatives, the oaks and beeches, chestnut trees usually produced banner crops every year, and they were counted on by many families as a major cash crop.

The wildlife of the early Eastern forest cherished the trees’ nuts as well. Black bears, deer, squirrels, wild turkey and even the once tremendous flocks of passenger pigeons all benefited from the heavy nut crop.

In addition to the commercial and survival value the nuts produced, the American chestnut tree was one of the more desirable hardwood timber species.

The trunk of a chestnut grew straight and thick. Lighter than oak but just as strong, the wood split easily down the grain. Furthermore, it had terrific rot resistance, which made it ideal for telephone poles, fencing, flooring and just about any piece of furniture you could think of. All of those wonderful features, for man and wildlife alike, would soon come to a crashing halt, in what many regarded as the greatest single loss in the history of eastern North American forests.

The discovery of dying American chestnut trees at The Bronx Zoo in New York City in 1904 signaled the beginning of a horrific epidemic. Symptoms included wilting leaves, large cankers with rupturing bark, sprouts below the cankered area and, shortly thereafter, death of the tree’s trunk and upper limbs.

Before anyone knew what was happening, the mysterious infection spread by unknown means to chestnuts throughout New England, destroying entire forests in a few short years. By 1910, the infamous chestnut blight had spread throughout New York, New Jersey, Maryland and well into Pennsylvania.

By the time the blight reached Pennsylvania, the federal and state government were determined to stop it through quarantine measures. Control lines were implemented and great effort was made to stop the march of death. Unfortunately, nothing worked. By 1940, the prominent American chestnut had been reduced to stump sprouts.

The blight that decimated the American chestnut trees was discovered to be caused by a fungus, accidentally brought to the United States around 1900 on Asian chestnut tree nursery stock. The chestnut blight fungus is native to Asia, where it usually does not cause severe damage on Chinese and Japanese chestnuts. However, the American chestnut had little resistance to the fungus.

The fungus enters the trees through any wound in which the spores are deposited and germinate. The fungus grows, penetrates the bark and outer wood tissues and causes their death. This area of affected bark, called a canker, eventually girdles the tree, and all parts of the tree above that point die.

Root systems usually survive the death of the stem and new sprouts are produced. However, being genetically identical to the killed parent, the sprouts have little resistance to the blight and also are girdled eventually, time and time again.

This process of killing and resprouting continues throughout Pennsylvania today. Some of these sprouts can grow to become small trees, but inevitably succumb to the fungus.

Plant biologists throughout the United States have been working on a cure for chestnut blight fungus almost since it was discovered, to no avail. However, recent technology with plant genetics has produced some optimistic results that indicate a cure may be within reach.

Every time I come across one that has attained decent size in the forest and may even be producing nuts, I wonder, could this be the one that begins the comeback?